The Molise wine region, Italy’s best-kept oenological secret, stretches languidly along the Adriatic Sea’s southern coast. Tucked between the better-known Abruzzo and Puglia, Molise is often overshadowed by its more prominent neighbors. However, those who venture into this quiet and unassuming region will discover a treasure trove of vinous delights that speak of an ancient tradition and a budding renaissance. This article will take you on a journey through Molise's vineyards, exploring its indigenous grapes, winemaking practices, and the delicate dance of tradition and modernity that defines its wines.
Molise, Italy’s second smallest region after the Valle d'Aosta, has a winemaking history that is both rich and ancient, with roots that trace back to the Samnites, an Italic people who cultivated vines long before the Romans. Despite this venerable heritage, Molise has remained relatively anonymous in the global wine scene, often overshadowed by its more prolific neighbors.
Molise’s geography is characterized by its coastal lowlands, rolling hills, and the highlands that rise towards the Apennine mountain range. This topographical diversity gives rise to a variety of microclimates that are conducive to viticulture. The region enjoys a Mediterranean climate along the coast, which becomes more continental as one moves inland, with significant temperature variations between day and night that are crucial for developing the aromatics and acidity in the grapes.
The true essence of Molise’s wines lies in its indigenous grape varieties, which are relatively unknown beyond the Italian peninsula:
Tintilia: Perhaps the most emblematic of Molise’s indigenous grapes, Tintilia is a red variety that has become synonymous with the region’s winemaking identity. This grape produces deeply colored, full-bodied wines with a rich tannic structure and a bouquet brimming with dark fruits, spices, and earthy undertones.
Aglianico: While more commonly associated with the neighboring regions of Campania and Basilicata, Aglianico thrives in Molise as well, where it is typically softer and more approachable than its counterparts, yet still structured and age-worthy.
Montepulciano: Not to be confused with the Tuscan town of the same name, Montepulciano is a versatile red grape that is widely planted across central and southern Italy, including Molise, where it produces robust wines.
Trebbiano Toscano: This white grape variety is found throughout Italy and plays a significant role in Molise's white winemaking, valued for its ability to yield refreshing and well-balanced wines.
Molise boasts four Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) designations that regulate and preserve the quality and authenticity of its wines:
Biferno DOC: Named after a river in Molise, the Biferno DOC includes red, white, and rosé wines. Reds are based on Montepulciano and Aglianico, whites on Trebbiano, and rosés combine the characteristics of both reds and whites into vibrant wines.
Pentro di Isernia DOC: This designation is reserved for wines made from a blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico for reds, and Trebbiano Toscano and other local white varieties for whites.
Molise DOC: The Molise DOC is an appellation that covers the entire region and includes varietal wines made from Tintilia, Aglianico, and Montepulciano for reds, and Trebbiano for whites.
Tintilia del Molise DOC: This is a varietal DOC created to highlight Tintilia, the region’s flagship grape. The wines under this label showcase the full potential of this unique variety.
Molise’s winemakers are custodians of a long tradition, yet they are not averse to innovation. Many vineyards are still tended by hand due to the hilly terrain, and age-old practices, such as pergola training systems, persist. However, there has been a recent move towards modern techniques, both in the vineyard and the cellar, to enhance the quality of the wines.
For instance, controlled temperature fermentation is now common, helping to preserve the delicate aromas of the white wines. In the case of reds, experimentation with oak aging is on the rise, which adds complexity and longevity to the wines.
Wine in Molise is inextricably linked to the region’s culinary traditions. The hearty reds are a perfect match for the robust flavors of local dishes such as 'pampanella', a spicy, slow-roasted pork, while the crisp whites complement seafood from the Adriatic, as well as the region’s array of cheeses and olive oils.
Tintilia deserves a special mention, not only for its quality but also for its story of near-extinction and triumphant revival. Once thought to be dwindling, passionate winemakers have resurrected Tintilia, showcasing its potential as a wine that can stand proudly on the international stage. Tintilia wines are characterized by their deep red color, intense berry aromas, and potential for aging, gaining complexity over time.
As the 21st century progresses, Molise is gaining attention for its commitment to quality and sustainability. The region’s winemakers are increasingly focusing on organic practices, reducing their environmental footprint, and highlighting the uniqueness of their terroir.
The wines of Molise are a discovery waiting for those who seek the road less traveled. In this small, unassuming region, winemakers are crafting wines that speak of their land with authenticity and pride. Tintilia, Aglianico, and Trebbiano are not just grapes; they are the narrators of Molise’s story, a story that intertwines the rusticity of the Italian countryside with the finesse of modern winemaking.
In Molise, you won’t find the grandiose wineries of Tuscany or the endless sea of vines you might see in Puglia. Instead, you’ll find a tapestry of small plots, each telling its own tale of a winemaking culture that is as sincere and unpretentious as the land from which it comes. These are wines that invite contemplation and conversation, urging you to slow down and savor each sip. Molise may not be the most famous of Italy’s wine regions, but for those who venture into its vineyards, it offers an experience as authentic as any in Italy.
Molise may not be the most renowned of Italy's wine regions, but it presents an array of interesting wines, particularly from indigenous grape varieties that are worth exploring. Here is a comprehensive list of the types of wines you can expect to find in Molise, along with specific appellations and some typical grape varieties used in the production:
Made exclusively from the Tintilia grape, known for its rich, full-bodied wines with robust tannins and dark fruit flavors.
A blend primarily of Montepulciano and Aglianico, producing structured and sometimes age-worthy red wines.
Reds made from Montepulciano, often blended with Aglianico, offering a similar structure with perhaps a bit more spice and earthiness.
This broader DOC allows for varietal wines from Montepulciano, Aglianico, and other red varieties, including international grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Within this DOC, white wines are predominantly made from Trebbiano, which can be crisp and refreshing with subtle fruit and floral notes.
These whites are primarily made from Trebbiano Toscano and Bombino Bianco, offering wines that are light and easy-drinking.
The DOC provides for rosé (or rosato) wines as well, often made from Montepulciano or Aglianico, delivering wines that are fresh with a pleasant balance between fruitiness and acidity.
Made in a similar blend to the Biferno Rosso, these rosés balance fruit flavors with a savory edge, often with notes of cherry and raspberry.
Sparkling wines can be produced under the Molise DOC, utilizing both white and red grape varieties, typically using the Charmat method for a fresh, approachable style.
While not as prevalent, Molise does produce some sweet wines, often from late-harvested or partially dried grapes. These can range from off-dry to sweet and are usually enjoyed as dessert wines.
In addition to the traditional grapes, Molise also has plantings of international varieties such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, which can be found in both varietal wines and blends.
Some wineries in Molise are experimenting with organic and biodynamic methods, aiming to express the terroir more clearly and sustainably.
Molise winemakers occasionally craft unique blends or single-varietal offerings from lesser-known grapes, which may be limited in production but offer a distinct sense of place and the winemaker's style.
Despite its small size, Molise's dedication to winemaking is evident in the quality and diversity of its wines. This list represents the core of what the region has to offer, but there is always more to discover among the artisan producers and small-batch vintners who continue to innovate and uphold Molise's winemaking heritage.
Other major red varieties are Ciliegolo, Gaglioppo, Lagrein, Lambrusco, Monica, Nerello Mascalese, Pignolo, Primitivo (Zinfandel in California), Refosco, Schiava, Schiopettino, Teroldego, and Uva di Troia. "International" varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc are also widely grown.
Other important whites include Carricante, Catarratto, Coda de Volpe, Cortese, Falanghina, Grechetto, Grillo, Inzolia, Picolit, Traminer, Verduzzo, and Vernaccia. As far as non-native varietals, the Italians plant Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer (sometimes called traminer aromatico), Riesling, Petite Arvine, and many others.
