There’s something magical about Italy’s hidden landscapes. You round a corner, navigate a steep cobblestone path, and arrive in a village where time stands still. Weathered terra-cotta roofs, olive trees spilling over ancient stone walls, and shady piazzas, where no one talks about the frenzied rush hour, and the conversations drift. You notice a bakery, the sweet scent of freshly baked bread wafting from a door you nearly missed.
For the slower, more human travel in Italy, the hidden villages will certainly win your heart. In daily life, you can hear the voices of bygone centuries. Goats shuffle by, old women gossip over laundry, and children stream through the alleys in pursuit of others. These are the lived landscapes I hope to help you discover in Old Italy through my travel tips and stories, and a sprinkle of the unexpected.
Bagnone, a village in Tuscany’s Lunigiana region, is where I want to transport you. The windows are pastel green and closed. Ivy covered the crenellated walls. Every little thing chestnut wood burnt. Every little thing the region’s sauce kid is cooked with. I spend my time in a working agriturismo, where the family apparently still uses the same old methods to bake wood-fired oven bread.
One time, I was over the Apennine foothills. The olive orchards shimmered with streaks of gold, and the scene looked like a painting come to life. The vibrant light glowing against the old stone walls was so breathtaking that I almost wished I could make a poster of it to capture that moment forever.
What makes it feel old-world?
Travel tip: Stay overnight. Most do a quick day trip and leave at night. It is the experience of the post-set twilight silence, the expectation of the faint star darkness, and the bread.
Next, Castelmezzano, looks like a crown set atop the jagged peaks of the Dolomiti Lucane. I remember the journey there: the winding mountain roads, climbing steadily, where the houses seemed to almost hang from the cliff sides. The streets are narrow and the steps are steep. From the balconies, Bougainvillea spills. The windows are wooden and the paint is peeling, but the scars of age lend a lovely charm to them.
When I first saw the Volo dell’Angelo (Flight of the Angel), a zip line that crosses the valley to Pietrapertosa, I thought it seemed wildly out of place. But I also thought it was strangely fitting. There is an adventurous spirit that seems to contrast with the quiet tradition of almost all the villages, but does not break the spell; it deepens it.
Why it feels like “Old Italy”:
Practical tip: from Potenza, reach Castelmezzano by car (public transport is an option, but it will take longer). Good walking shoes are advisable, and plan to eat local food. When it is time to order, say yes to whatever the nonna recommends; it is most likely what she grew up eating. If the sunset framing Castelmezzano looks vibrant and raw, you might think to capture it in a sketch; it’s that kind of scene.
If you prefer to breathe in the sea air and listen to the waves under pastel façades, Tellaro in Liguria (a hidden Italian gem) is the place for you. Tellaro is perched on the cliffs of the Mediterranean Sea. Simplicity is the source of beauty here. Watching fishermen’s boats bob in the sea, walking on the rocky shore, eating pesto made from freshly picked basil, and having truly local seafood.
On my first morning in Tellaro, I wandered before sunrise. The sky was a wash of pinks, and no tourist was in sight. Old men mended nets by candlelight, and the smell of fresh focaccia floated from ovens. Cafés filled by mid-morning, but until then it was just you, the sea, the stone walls, and that stillness.
What to soak up:
Tip: get to La Spezia or any other hub by train and then take a local bus or hitch a ride. Stay two to three nights so you see both dawn and dusk. Don’t schedule everything: leave a few hours.
These villages feel ancient, and they partly are. But many are fragile. Young people move away. Historic buildings need repair. Tourism can be a blessing and a burden. When visiting, small choices can make a big difference:
Memories are a wonderful thing to bring back. When you do this, ponder on the most respectful ways to give back to the community, especially if you do this by donating photos, sketches, or art. If your sketches are of the villages, ask locals if they would like to collaborate. You might be surprised by the requests people make, like asking if they can sell a poster you made. If this happens, consider donating a portion of the profits to local craftspeople.
To many, travel means moving from one place to a different place, but it can also mean caring, learning, and preserving.
Hidden villages are smaller, often remote communities that maintain traditional lifestyles and architecture. They are usually less affected by tourism and preserve a strong sense of local identity.
Many require a car or regional transport like buses or trains with limited schedules. The journey itself is part of the experience, winding roads, mountain passes, and scenic valleys.
Yes, but learning a few simple phrases like buongiorno (good morning) and grazie (thank you) goes a long way. Locals appreciate the effort and often respond warmly.
Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) are ideal. The weather is pleasant, crowds are minimal, and seasonal foods like mushrooms and truffles are at their best.
Stay local, respect quiet hours, avoid over-tourism in fragile areas, and support artisans or local shops directly.