Alessandria
Tucked away in the fertile plains of northern Italy, where the River Tanaro meets the Bormida, lies Alessandria, a city steeped in history, architectural splendor, and understated elegance. Often overlooked in favor of Piedmont’s more famous destinations like Turin or Asti, Alessandria offers a rare blend of military heritage, Baroque architecture, refined cuisine, and authentic Italian life without the crowds.
A Strategic Beginning: The City's Origins
Alessandria was founded in 1168 during the power struggles between the Holy Roman Empire and the Lombard League. It was named in honor of Pope Alexander III, who supported the Lombards in their resistance against Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Its strategic location between Milan, Genoa, and Turin made it a key military and trading center throughout the centuries.
The city became part of the Kingdom of Sardinia and later unified Italy under the House of Savoy. Its military significance was cemented with the construction of the Cittadella of Alessandria, an immense 18th-century star fort that still stands today, one of Europe’s finest examples of military architecture.
The Cittadella: A Fortress Through Time
One cannot talk about Alessandria without mentioning its most iconic structure, the Cittadella. Built in 1728 by the Kingdom of Sardinia to defend the borders of Piedmont, the fortress was designed in a six-point star shape surrounded by a moat and an intricate system of tunnels and barracks. It played a crucial role during the Napoleonic Wars and the Risorgimento.
Today, although no longer used for military purposes, the Cittadella is open to the public for guided tours, exhibitions, and historical reenactments. Its vast, grass-covered ramparts offer panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside.
A City of Elegant Streets and Cultural Treasures
Alessandria’s historic center is a delight to explore, with neoclassical facades, narrow alleyways, and lively piazzas. Start at Piazza della Libertà, the heart of the city, surrounded by elegant porticoes and civic buildings. The Palazzo Ghilini, with its imposing Baroque facade, now serves as the provincial government’s headquarters.
Another gem is the Cathedral of San Pietro, rebuilt in the 19th century after Napoleon destroyed the original. It features a striking neoclassical exterior and richly decorated interiors.
Museums and the Arts
The city also houses a surprising number of cultural institutions. The Museo Civico di Palazzo Cuttica showcases a fine collection of paintings, archaeological finds, and period furnishings. Nearby, the Gambarina Museum offers an evocative glimpse into Alessandria’s folk traditions, rural past, and everyday life in centuries gone by.
The Theatre of Alessandria, Teatro Alessandrino, and local art galleries keep the city’s cultural calendar vibrant with concerts, plays, and exhibitions.
Gastronomy: A Culinary Bridge Between Regions
Alessandria’s cuisine reflects its geographical position between Liguria, Lombardy, and the Piedmontese hills. Local dishes are a flavorful blend of rich northern Italian cooking and Mediterranean freshness.
Try "aglio e olio" truffle pasta, braised meats, or bagna càuda, a warm anchovy-garlic dip typical of the region. Alessandria is also known for baci di dama, hazelnut cookies traditionally made by hand. Wash it all down with a glass of Barbera d’Asti or Cortese from the surrounding Monferrato vineyards.
Markets, Fashion & Lifestyle
Alessandria is not just about history, it’s also known for its fashion industry, particularly for hat-making. The city was once home to Borsalino, the legendary hatmaker whose creations have adorned heads from Humphrey Bogart to Michael Jackson. The Borsalino Museum tells the story of the brand and showcases its iconic designs.
Weekly markets in the city center fill the streets with stalls selling everything from fresh produce to artisanal goods. It’s also a great place to shop for Piedmontese wines, cheeses, and handmade products.
Surroundings and Day Trips
Thanks to its central location, Alessandria makes an excellent base for exploring southern Piedmont. Within an hour’s drive, you can reach:
Asti, famous for its sparkling wines and Palio horse race
Casale Monferrato, with its Jewish heritage and scenic vineyards
Acqui Terme, a spa town with Roman roots and natural thermal springs
Gavi, known for its medieval fortress and crisp white wines
For nature lovers, the nearby Appennino hills and Monferrato countryside offer trails, bike routes, and unforgettable panoramas.
Getting There and When to Visit
Alessandria is well-connected by train and road. It lies along the main railway between Turin and Genoa, making it easily accessible from Milan and other northern cities. The best time to visit is from April to June and September to October, when the weather is pleasant and the countryside bursts into color.
A City Worth Discovering
Alessandria may not be the first name that springs to mind when planning a trip to Italy, but that’s precisely its charm. It’s a place where history is part of the landscape, where you can wander for hours and discover something new on every street, be it a Baroque church, a hidden courtyard, or a locally-loved trattoria.
Whether you're a history buff, a wine lover, or simply someone seeking the authentic Italy, Alessandria welcomes you with quiet elegance and a rich, resonant past.
