Pistoia
Tucked quietly between Florence and Lucca, Pistoia is a city that many travelers overlook, but shouldn’t. With its well-preserved medieval heart, centuries-old artistic heritage, and vibrant local culture, Pistoia offers an authentic and richly textured Tuscan experience, far from the tourist-packed hotspots.
Nicknamed the “Little Florence” for its architectural elegance and artistic depth, Pistoia reveals itself slowly: through shadowy cloisters, hidden frescoes, lively markets, and quiet piazzas. If you're seeking a destination where you can step back in time and truly immerse yourself in Tuscan tradition, Pistoia is a treasure waiting to be explored.
A City with Ancient Roots
Pistoia’s origins stretch back to Roman times, and possibly earlier as an Etruscan settlement. By the Middle Ages, it had grown into a prosperous commune known for its political autonomy, craftsmanship, and strong religious institutions.
The medieval core of Pistoia is exceptionally well preserved, with cobbled streets, fortified walls, Gothic and Romanesque churches, and historic buildings that have changed little over the centuries.
Its long and layered history can be seen not only in architecture but also in the city’s vibrant religious festivals, civic traditions, and arts, all of which remain an integral part of life here.
Piazza del Duomo: The Timeless Heart of Pistoia
Pistoia’s beating heart is the Piazza del Duomo, one of the most beautiful and harmonious squares in Tuscany. Here, surrounded by civic and religious landmarks, visitors can witness the city’s deep medieval character.
Pistoia Cathedral (San Zeno)
Dedicated to Saint Zeno, the cathedral is a stunning example of Romanesque architecture, with a striking façade and a bell tower that dominates the skyline. Inside, you’ll find a majestic silver altar dedicated to St. James, which took centuries to complete and is one of the greatest masterpieces of medieval silversmithing in Italy.
Baptistery of San Giovanni in Corte
Standing opposite the cathedral, this Gothic building is clad in alternating bands of white and green marble. Its hexagonal structure and elaborate decorations echo the baptistery in Florence, and it’s considered one of the most beautiful of its kind.
Palazzo del Comune & Palazzo del Podestà
These two impressive civic buildings complete the square, housing historic archives, medieval courtrooms, and art collections that trace the rise of Pistoia’s republic and noble families.
Hidden Artistic Treasures
Pistoia may not have the global fame of Florence, but it is overflowing with artistic wealth. From frescoed churches to cloistered monasteries and museums, art is woven into the city’s fabric.
Ospedale del Ceppo
This 13th-century hospital is best known for its colorful ceramic Della Robbia-style frieze, which decorates its façade and depicts the Seven Works of Mercy in vibrant glaze. The hospital also houses a Medieval Surgical Instruments Museum, and beneath it lies a fascinating underground tour of Pistoia’s ancient water system.
Church of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas
Tucked into a quiet street, this church is a Romanesque gem. Don’t miss its white-and-green marble façade and the carved pulpit by Fra Guglielmo da Pisa, a stunning example of 13th-century sculpture
Museo Civico (City Museum)
Housed in the Palazzo Comunale, this museum features paintings, sculptures, and artifacts from the 13th to the 20th century, including works by Giovanni Pisano, Lippi, and Verrocchio.
Gardens, Markets, and Everyday Life
Pistoia isn’t just a city of the past, it’s full of local energy and modern charm. Each Wednesday and Saturday, the historic center comes alive with an open-air market, where vendors sell everything from fresh produce and meats to clothes, housewares, and antiques.
The Giardino Zoologico di Pistoia is one of Italy’s best-known zoos and a family-friendly spot just outside the city center, set within a leafy, hilly park. Meanwhile, the nearby Villa Celle Sculpture Park is a unique open-air museum of contemporary art installations in a lush countryside setting.
A City of Music and Festivals
Pistoia has a rich cultural life, especially in the summer when it hosts the renowned Pistoia Blues Festival, one of Italy’s top music events, attracting international artists and thousands of fans to the Piazza del Duomo.
There’s also the Giostra dell’Orso (Joust of the Bear), a historic equestrian tournament held every July 25th on the feast of Saint James. This traditional event features costumed parades, flag-throwing performances, and a thrilling joust between knights representing the city’s districts.
Culinary Traditions: A Taste of Authentic Tuscany
Pistoia’s food reflects the hearty, rustic soul of inland Tuscany. The surrounding hills and farmland provide fresh ingredients that are turned into delicious, straightforward dishes.
Local specialties include:
Maccheroni sull’anatra: pasta served with a rich duck ragù
Farinata: a chickpea flatbread shared with nearby Ligurian culture
Porchetta: slow-roasted, herb-filled pork, often served at markets
Castagnaccio: a chestnut flour cake typical of the Apennine area
Pair your meal with red wines from the nearby Chianti Montalbano region, and finish with vin santo and cantuccini for a truly Tuscan experience.
Day Trips from Pistoia
Thanks to its central location, Pistoia makes a great base for exploring northern Tuscany. Quick day trips include:
Florence: just 30 minutes by train
Lucca: under 40 minutes
Montecatini Terme: a charming spa town just 15 minutes away
Abetone: a ski resort and hiking area in the Apennines
Pistoia: Tuscany’s Best-Kept Secret
Pistoia is a place where history lives quietly, where every stone tells a story, and where travelers can experience Tuscany without the crowds. From majestic Romanesque churches and underground tours to open-air concerts and medieval jousts, Pistoia is rich, rewarding, and real.
If you’re looking for a more intimate, soulful Tuscan destination, one with art, tradition, and genuine local life, put Pistoia on your map. You might just fall in love with a city you never expected.
