Salina: The Green and Graceful Jewel of the Aeolian Islands
Salina, the second-largest of the Aeolian Islands, is often described as the greenest, most fertile and most tranquil of the archipelago. Rising from the sea with two extinct volcanic peaks, Monte Fossa delle Felci and Monte dei Porri, Salina’s silhouette is unmistakable. Unlike the more rugged islands shaped by recent eruptions, Salina’s softer contours reflect its long-dormant geology, making it an oasis of vegetation among volcanic neighbours.
This island distinguishes itself through its lush vineyards, terraced hillsides, caper farms, freshwater springs and picturesque villages. It is also home to the famous Malvasia delle Lipari wine, one of the most celebrated dessert wines of the Mediterranean. Salina’s atmosphere is serene, elegant and authentic, making it a favourite destination for travellers who want a slower pace and a deep connection with nature, food and local culture.
Salina consists of six charming villages: Santa Marina, Malfa, Leni, Rinella, Valdichiesa and Pollara. Each offers a different experience, from lively waterfront boutiques to remote cliffside sunsets. In this comprehensive guide, you will explore Salina’s landscapes, history, villages, beaches, food traditions, nature trails and practical travel tips to help you plan a fulfilling and memorable visit.
A Brief History of Salina
Salina’s history is deeply intertwined with agriculture, maritime trade and traditional island life. Its name comes from the saltworks that once operated near Punta Lingua, where seawater evaporated in shallow basins to produce salt for food preservation. During the Greek and Roman eras, Salina was known for its fertile land and high-quality products, especially wine and olives. While other Aeolian Islands were more densely populated in antiquity, Salina developed a reputation as the archipelago’s agricultural centre.
The island’s two volcanoes last erupted thousands of years ago, allowing soil to develop and vegetation to flourish. Over time, terraced farming became an essential part of Salina’s identity, with generations of growers cultivating grapes, capers, figs, citrus fruits and other Mediterranean crops. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Malvasia wine produced on Salina was exported throughout Europe, contributing to the island’s prosperity.
Emigration reduced the population in the mid-20th century, but Salina has since experienced a revival focused on high-quality agriculture, eco-tourism and hospitality. Today it remains one of the most harmonious and well-preserved islands in the Aeolian group, offering a blend of history, natural beauty and artisanal tradition.
The Six Villages of Salina
Santa Marina Salina: The Island’s Lively Gateway
Santa Marina is the largest and most active village on Salina. Its waterfront promenade, lined with boutiques, cafés and restaurants, creates a welcoming atmosphere for visitors arriving by ferry. Santa Marina’s streets are elegant and well-kept, with colourful facades, small piazzas and beautiful churches. This village is ideal for those who enjoy a blend of convenience, charm and access to sea transport.
Behind the village, terraced hills rise toward the interior of the island, dotted with vineyards and olive groves. The main church, dedicated to Santa Marina, stands on a raised terrace overlooking the sea, making it a scenic stop for travellers exploring the village on foot.
Malfa: The Heart of Salina’s Wine Country
Malfa, located on the northern side of the island, is surrounded by vineyards that produce some of Salina’s finest Malvasia wine. This elegant village offers stunning sea views, a peaceful atmosphere and easy access to scenic trails. Its small piazza, local shops and traditional restaurants make it a favourite base for visitors seeking refinement and tranquillity.
The coastline below Malfa features rocky coves, perfect for swimming and snorkelling. The area is quiet and unspoilt, ideal for travellers who enjoy nature and slow-paced island life.
Leni and Rinella: Rural Life and Seaside Charm
Leni is one of the oldest villages on the island, located on a hillside between the two volcanoes. It has a strong agricultural tradition and offers splendid views over the cultivated valley leading to the sea. A short drive or walk downhill brings you to Rinella, Salina’s second port, known for its black-sand beach and pastel-coloured houses.
Rinella has a cozy, small-town feel, popular with families and travellers who prefer a low-key seaside atmosphere. Its beach is shallow and perfect for swimming, while the nearby cliffs hide small caves accessible by boat.
Valdichiesa and Pollara: Spirituality and Breathtaking Vistas
Valdichiesa sits at the centre of the island, offering easy access to the mountain trails leading to Monte Fossa delle Felci. This quiet hamlet is home to the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Terzito, a deeply significant religious site for locals and a peaceful stop for visitors.
Pollara, perched on the western cliffs, is the most extraordinary village on Salina. Known for its spectacular sunsets, semi-circular volcanic bay and dramatic cliffs, Pollara inspired scenes from the film “Il Postino.” Its rugged coastline, carved from an ancient crater, offers one of the most impressive natural amphitheatres in the Aeolian Islands.
The Natural Beauty of Salina
Salina’s landscapes are among the most diverse in the Aeolian Islands. The twin volcanoes dominate the skyline, while terraced farmland, fragrant vegetation and coastal cliffs give the island a harmonious and vibrant character. Unlike some neighbours, Salina has abundant freshwater springs, which support thriving plant life, including ferns, pines, chestnut trees and wildflowers.
The coastline alternates between pebble beaches, rocky platforms and dramatic cliffs. Inland, well-marked trails lead through forests, valleys and vineyards, making the island ideal for hiking enthusiasts. Salina feels fresh and alive, with scents of herbs, citrus and fertile soil filling the air, creating an atmosphere of serenity and connection with nature.
Hiking to Monte Fossa delle Felci
The hike to the summit of Monte Fossa delle Felci, the highest point in the Aeolian Islands, is one of the most rewarding outdoor activities on Salina. The mountain, rising 962 metres above sea level, is covered in lush forests that give the island its reputation as the greenest of the archipelago. The trail starts from several access points, including Valdichiesa, and winds through shaded woodland filled with ferns, chestnut trees and aromatic shrubs.
As hikers ascend, glimpses of the sea appear between the trees, and the vegetation becomes more varied. The summit offers sweeping views across the Aeolian chain: Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli, Filicudi and Alicudi stretch across the horizon, while Salina’s own volcanic silhouette is beautifully visible. The climb is moderately challenging but suitable for most visitors with proper footwear and water. The rewarding sense of reaching the Aeolian summit makes this one of the most iconic experiences on the island.
Monte dei Porri, the island’s second peak, offers another excellent hiking route, with views overlooking Pollara’s dramatic cliffs and the western sea. Together, these twin volcanoes create a hiker’s paradise filled with natural beauty.
Pollara: A Natural Amphitheatre on the Sea
Pollara, located on the far western edge of Salina, is one of the most extraordinary places in the Aeolian Islands. Its crescent-shaped bay was formed millions of years ago when part of an ancient crater collapsed into the sea. Steep cliffs rise around the bay in a dramatic semicircle, creating a natural amphitheatre that opens toward the horizon. At sunset, the sky fills with vivid colours, and the sun appears to sink directly into the water, making Pollara one of the best sunset spots in the Mediterranean.
The village itself is quiet and atmospheric, with a handful of houses perched on terraces overlooking the cliffs. A narrow path leads down to the water, where stone fishing shelters, carved directly into the rock, provide a glimpse of traditional island life. Swimming in Pollara is a magical experience, especially in the late afternoon when the light softens and the sea glows with warm hues. The beauty of this place leaves a lasting impression on anyone who visits.
The Beaches and Swimming Spots of Salina
Salina’s beaches are modest in size but extraordinary in atmosphere. Most are pebble beaches framed by volcanic cliffs, offering clear waters ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Rinella’s black-sand beach is one of the few sandy shores on the island and is particularly popular with families. The shallow water and gentle waves make it perfect for relaxed swims.
Santa Marina and Lingua offer pebble beaches with excellent water clarity and easy access to cafés and restaurants. In Malfa, the Scario beach is a favourite for snorkelling, with rocky platforms leading into deep, transparent water. For travellers who enjoy peaceful and untouched scenery, several secluded coves along the western coastline can be reached by boat, offering tranquillity far from the villages.
The waters around Salina are exceptionally clean due to the island’s minimal development and protected marine ecosystems. Whether diving into deep blue water from rocks or floating in calm bays, swimmers find Salina to be one of the most refreshing and beautiful islands in the Aeolian archipelago.
Wine, Capers and Aeolian Gastronomy
Salina is famous for its agricultural products, especially its aromatic capers and its world-renowned Malvasia wine. The capers grown on the island are celebrated for their intense flavour and are harvested by hand during the summer. They are a staple in Aeolian cuisine, used in salads, sauces, fish dishes and savoury pastries.
The island’s Malvasia delle Lipari wine has been made for centuries. Traditional producers harvest the grapes from sun-drenched terraces, dry them naturally and press them into a golden, fragrant dessert wine with notes of honey, apricot and Mediterranean herbs. Several family-run wineries offer tastings, giving visitors the chance to learn about the island’s winemaking traditions while sampling high-quality vintages.
Typical dishes of Salina include “pane cunzato,” swordfish rolls, stuffed vegetables, ricotta-based sweets and fresh pasta served with tomato and caper sauce. Restaurants in Santa Marina, Malfa and Rinella take advantage of local ingredients to serve simple yet refined meals in scenic settings. Dining on Salina is a sensory pleasure that reflects the island’s connection with land and sea.
Exploring Salina by Sea
Boat excursions are a wonderful way to explore Salina’s coastline and appreciate its rugged beauty from the water. Trips depart from Santa Marina, Malfa and Rinella and usually include swimming stops, cave visits and opportunities to view cliffs that are otherwise inaccessible. Pollara’s bay is particularly stunning from the sea, where the full arc of the ancient crater becomes visible.
Many boat tours include a stop at nearby Lipari or Filicudi, offering a chance to combine island visits in a single day. Chartering a private boat allows travellers to tailor the route to their interests, whether swimming in secluded coves, snorkelling along rocky coastlines or enjoying a slow cruise at sunset.
The sea around Salina is calm during the summer months, making boat trips comfortable and accessible for all ages. With its striking geology and clear water, the island offers an exceptional coastal experience.
Planning Your Visit to Salina
Salina is well-connected by ferry and hydrofoil from Milazzo, Messina, Palermo and the other Aeolian Islands. Because it is more tranquil than Lipari or Vulcano, accommodation on Salina tends to focus on boutique hotels, charming guesthouses and family-run inns. Many properties offer terraces with sea views, gardens filled with citrus trees or access to traditional village squares.
The best seasons to visit are late spring and early autumn, when the weather is warm but not overly hot. Summer is also beautiful, with lively village life and warm sea temperatures, though it attracts more visitors. Hikers enjoy Salina most in spring and October, when the landscape is green and temperatures are ideal for long walks.
Transportation around the island includes buses, taxis, scooters and rental cars. The distances between villages are short, and the roads offer stunning views. Whether exploring by foot, by vehicle or by boat, travellers find Salina easy to navigate and deeply rewarding.
Why Salina Should Be On Your Travel List
Salina combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, warm hospitality and unforgettable flavours. It offers travellers a peaceful yet enriching experience, unique even among the Aeolian Islands. Its landscapes range from volcanic peaks to lush terraces, from deep blue waters to dramatic cliffs. Its villages are elegant, authentic and welcoming. And its traditions — from caper cultivation to Malvasia winemaking — provide a strong sense of place.
Whether you seek hiking adventures, quiet beaches, culinary excellence, scenic drives or romantic sunsets, Salina offers a balanced and harmonious retreat. It is a place where time slows down, where nature feels close and where the Mediterranean reveals its gentlest and most life-affirming side.
